Goodbye Hawaii

On our last day in Hawaii, we decided to revisit the Pu'uhonua O Honaunau (Place of Refuge) National Historical park because it was close by and we could visit it before heading to the airport. We had visited the park on a previous night, but didn't get to soak it in, as it had gotten dark. In olden times, this place was literally a place of refuge for people who broke the rigid "Kapu" (taboo) system. If Hawaiians were able to swim to this spot, they escaped punishment by death, which was the flat penalty for breaking Kapu. Things that were "kapu" ran the gamut from hard-core murder, to minor offenses such as stepping in the king's shadow. 

At Place of Refuge, we found a nice gentleman dressed in a loincloth. He demonstrated and described to us the traditional Hawaiian method for octopus fishing. Anyone who thinks that ancient people were stupid, and didn't apply their ingenuity to feed themselves, are flat wrong.

A native Hawaiian describes Octopus fishing techniques
Pu'uhonua O Honaunau (Place of Refuge)

Mina follows the guided tour
Pu'uhonua O Honaunau (Place of Refuge)

Ki'i (Tiki)
Pu'uhonua O Honaunau (Place of Refuge)

We left Hawaii feeling rested, and inspired, and eager to come back some day.

Our Affordable Hawaiian Vacation - Landing on Big Island

Today, we flew from Maui to Big Island. During the plane ride, we got amazing views of Molokini crater, and Wailea, Maui:

Molokini Crater from above (M. Goodnow)

Multi-billion Dollar Wailea Coastline of Maui
(M. Leung)

The views of Big Island as we got ready to land were much more foreboding: this relatively young volcanic island is made up entirely of relatively new, black lava flows.

Upon landing on Big Island, we booked dive operators. At first, I was in favor of Jack's Diving Locker. But after comparing operations, we decided to book with Wanna Dive instead due to their smaller boat size, slightly cheaper prices. Also, Wanna Dive claimed that the other customers booking with us were fairly advanced divers as well, which meant greater freedom in choosing dive sites. With the exception of Catalina Scuba Luv, Mark and I favor smaller dive operators and dive boats.

We checked into the Pomaika'i Lucky B&B Farms, which is a working coffee farm, in addition to being a bed and breakfast. We had read about this rustic B&B in an article on affordable Hawaii in the New York Times. Situated in Captain Cook on the Kona coast, this B&B is situated in the famous Kona coffee region, and it is also near world class shore dive sites, such as the Place of Refuge, and Kealakekua Bay. When choosing Pomaika'i Lucky Farms, I thought to myself: "Kona coffee and scuba diving, what more can I ask for?"

After quickly checking in, we bumbled upon Place of Refuge, or Pu'uhonua O Honaunau National Historic Park. Lucky for us, we caught it at sunset, which is the most spectacular time to visit this park. To say this park is a special, spiritual place may sound cliched, but it is true. In olden times, this spot was literally a place of refuge for people who broke the rigid "Kapu" (taboo) system. If they can manage to swim to this spot, they escaped death. As I watched the sun setting, I stilled my mind, and felt a sense of sacredness and gratitude wash over me. The spirituality inherent in this place is indisputable.  

Sunset at Place of Refuge (M. Goodnow)

Soaking in the Sunset at Place of Refuge
Pu'uhonua O Honaunau (M. Goodnow)

Place of Refuge (M. Goodnow)

Ki'i (or Tiki in Marquesan) statues
at Place of Refuge (M. Goodnow)

Ki'i statues at Place of Refuge

For dinner we at Manago Restaurant, a third generation family business where they serve Japanese home cooking. Mark didn't agree, but I thought the food was inexpensive and delicious. The patina and history in this establishment was undeniable.